Tag: bahia

  • chat with Antoine – parts 1 and 2: a random knock, a passport, and a very different definition of freedom

    chat with Antoine – parts 1 and 2: a random knock, a passport, and a very different definition of freedom

    sometimes the best conversations are the ones you could not have planned if you tried.

    i had known Antoine for about 72 hours when we recorded these two episodes.

    we did not meet through social media. we did not get introduced by a mutual friend. there was no scheduled interview, networking event, expat meetup, or carefully curated travel experience involved.

    he heard American voices while waiting for the elevator in my building in Salvador, Bahia, and knocked on the door.

    that was it.

    a few days later, he was sitting on my sofa overlooking the ocean, we were talking, and eventually I turned on the microphone.

    Antoine, who is also sometimes called Tomahawk, is from the United States and has been living in Colombia for years while continuing to return to the U.S. for work. he has traveled extensively, served in the military, works in a field that allows him to take contracts in chunks, and has deliberately structured his life so that work supports the life he wants instead of becoming the entire life.

    that distinction became one of the threads running through both conversations.

    part one: how do you end up living like this?

    part one begins with how we met, but quickly turns into the story of how Antoine became a solo traveler in the first place.

    his first independent international trip was to the Dominican Republic. the reason was simple. his birthday falls close to Christmas, coordinating with other people was becoming a problem, and he got tired of waiting.

    as he puts it:

    “I’m about to start celebrating myself. I don’t even need anybody else.”

    so he went alone.

    after that, traveling alone stopped being unusual.

    we talk about his military experience and Hawaii, his years in Colombia, the difference between spending time inside an expat bubble and engaging with the place where you actually live, and what happens psychologically when another country starts feeling more like home than the country printed on your passport.

    one of the strongest moments comes when Antoine talks about returning to the United States after his first experience in Colombia. he remembers sitting on the airplane with tears running down his face because, in his words, he had discovered a kind of happiness there that he had not experienced before.

    that leads us into a complicated conversation about race and class.

    Antoine talks about his experiences as a Black American man traveling through Colombia and Brazil. we compare how race operates in the United States with what we have personally observed in Latin America, while also talking about classism and the danger of assuming that another country is free of racism simply because racism looks different there.

    these are personal observations, not universal conclusions, and that distinction matters.

    we also get into something people constantly ask travelers and people who relocate:

    how are you paying for all of this?

    Antoine’s answer is considerably less glamorous than the Instagram version.

    when he is working in the United States, he works hard and cuts expenses aggressively. he talks about long days, inexpensive housing, limiting his social life, avoiding unnecessary spending, and stacking money while he has a contract.

    then he leaves.

    the irony, which he admits himself, is that once he gets overseas, his restraint can disappear and he likes living well.

    there is an actual financial strategy underneath the lifestyle, but it is not based on pretending that travel magically became free.

    and somewhere in the middle of all of that, I interrupt a perfectly good interview because Antoine has ridiculous eyelashes.

    his response:

    “Who wants to have their best feature be their eyelashes?”

    this is why I cannot conduct a normal interview.

    part two: how much money is enough?

    part two is where the conversation starts moving from how did you build this life? to how long can you keep building it this way?

    Antoine has no interest in working twelve months simply because he technically could.

    he prefers contract work. two months. three months. six months. get in, make the money, and get out.

    he talks about losing a contract in a way that would sound completely backward to someone whose entire financial life depends on remaining continuously employed.

    “Anytime a contract ends or if I lose a contract or anything bad happens… I go on vacation.”

    that only works, of course, because he plans for it.

    and that is where the conversation gets more interesting.

    freedom and financial irresponsibility are not the same thing.

    Antoine is thinking about retirement. he is building a nest egg. he talks about buying property in Colombia, pursuing residency, establishing residual income, and eventually eliminating the need to return to the United States for work.

    at one point he describes looking at his life like an hourglass:

    “I look at my life in an hourglass, and that motherfucker is tilted.”

    that may be the clearest explanation of his entire philosophy.

    he knows he could make more money by working more.

    he simply does not believe every dollar available to him is worth another piece of his life.

    we also talk about work from another angle: what younger people should learn now.

    the conversation moves through construction, welding, electrical work, plumbing, military benefits, and skilled trades before Antoine starts looking forward. in his view, people entering the workforce should be paying attention to drones, robotics, artificial intelligence, and the jobs required to operate the technology replacing other forms of labor.

    we are not presenting his predictions as guarantees. what interested me was the way he was thinking about work itself.

    instead of asking only, what job can I get?

    the better question may be:

    what kind of work will give me the life I actually want?

    the part that interested me most

    these two episodes are not really a travel guide.

    Antoine does talk about Colombia, Brazil, Hawaii, the Dominican Republic, South Korea, and other places he has experienced. we talk about residency, property, careers, money, culture, retirement, relationships, and some things that probably should have remained off-mic but absolutely did not.

    but underneath all of it is a question I keep coming back to.

    what are you optimizing your life for?

    more income?

    more possessions?

    security?

    time?

    mobility?

    adventure?

    community?

    peace?

    some combination of all of them?

    Antoine has made his choice. he will leave money on the table if taking it means giving up too much of his time.

    you do not have to agree with him.

    in fact, there are plenty of things in these conversations that listeners may disagree with.

    that is exactly why I wanted to publish them.

    Brasil: Behind Closed Doors was never supposed to be a collection of people giving the approved answer about living abroad.

    sometimes it is simply two people sitting in an apartment in Bahia, talking about how they got here, what they have learned, what they still have not figured out, and what they are willing to trade for a life that feels like their own.

    listen to both parts above.

    FAAFO.app
    radio.FAAFO.app

  • part 1 of 3: jefferson the island of chaos

    part 1 of 3: jefferson the island of chaos

    existe um tipo de pessoa que você conhece e imediatamente sente que já conhecia há cinquenta anos. não vidas passadas. cinquenta anos. como se vocês tivessem cortado o intervalo e simplesmente chegado no ponto em que a amizade já estava estabelecida.

    jefferson é essa pessoa.

    e esse post quase não aconteceu porque ele me irritou profundamente. mas ele se redimiu. como sempre faz. e é parte do motivo pelo qual eu o honro.

    a foto que não saía da minha cabeça

    eu estava vivendo em salvador há mais ou menos um mês quando vi uma foto de cachoeira. não era nem uma das fotos mais bonitas que já vi do lugar. era só uma encosta seca, provavelmente na estação seca. mas eu não conseguia tirar aquela imagem da cabeça.

    fui dormir pensando nisso. acordei pensando nisso. eu tinha que ir lá. eu não sabia por quê. só sabia que precisava ir.

    colagem jefferson cachoeira salvador bahia

    e tem mais uma coisa: uma semana antes eu tinha recebido um download. um insight de que havia uma pessoa espiritual que eu precisava conhecer. não estava procurando um professor espiritual. não é o tipo de coisa que eu faço. mas ouvi claramente: existe uma pessoa que você precisa conhecer. então mandei mensagem para a única pessoa que eu conhecia em salvador pedindo indicações. nada apareceu.

    daí conheci uma americana pelo threads que fazia passeios a pé por salvador. fomos juntas numa caminhada. mencionei cachoeira. ela nunca tinha ido. marcamos a viagem.

    ônibus cachoeira bahia chegada viagem

    assim que descemos do ônibus em cachoeira, soubemos que precisávamos ficar duas noites, não uma. o ar era diferente. mais leve. verde de um jeito que salvador não é. a cidade entrou em mim de um jeito que eu não estava esperando.

    cultura local bahia salvador aventura expat

    o homem da confeitaria

    estávamos num balcão de confeitaria. ela escolhia doces. eu já estava levemente irritada porque me deram café frio que esquentaram no micro-ondas. aquele tipo de dia. estava sentada com o meu café olhando para o nada quando um homem alto e esguio se aproximou e disse: ah, vocês falam inglês.

    meu primeiro pensamento foi: ela vai esculhambar ele.

    confeitaria cachoeira bahia doces cultura local

    mas não foi assim. eles começaram a conversar. ele veio sentar à mesa. ela me apresentou. e eu fiquei observando, um pouco na minha, porque estava cansada e não tinha ido lá para fazer networking. mas a minha primeira impressão dele foi essa: ele parecia meu filho. tinha aquela energia curiosa e amigável que me lembrou imediatamente o meu menino. e eu notei que ele amava doces. estava completamente entretido não só com as sobremesas dele mas com as dela, girando no prato, inspecionando, saboreando cada pedaço com uma concentração absurda.

    cachoeira salvador bahia experiência expat

    trocamos números. descobrimos que ele morava em salvador e tinha ido lá de passagem. no dia seguinte ele apareceu para o café da manhã.

    cachoeira salvador bahia café da manhã expat

    jefferson.

    o prefeito da bahia

    existe uma piada entre a gente. jefferson é o prefeito da bahia. não importa onde a gente vai. não importa a hora. ele conhece alguém. ou alguém conhece ele. eu já fiz apostas com ele que a gente não consegue caminhar alguns metros sem ele encontrar uma pessoa conhecida. ele nega. diz que não conhece todo mundo. até hoje ele me deve dinheiro porque não ganhou uma aposta sequer.

    cachoeira salvador bahia rua cultura local

    foi a mesma coisa naquele primeiro encontro em cachoeira. a cidade inteira parecia saber o nome dele.

    de volta a salvador, apresentei jefferson ao leo. leo é aquele que cuida dos meus assuntos práticos — vistos, traduções, burocracia. nasceu e cresceu em salvador, foi pra faculdade em atlanta numa universidade historicamente negra, fala inglês fluentemente. leo e jefferson não se conheciam. e eu fiquei pensando: como temos dois homens negros nascidos e criados em salvador, dos poucos que falam inglês, e eles não se conhecem?

    ilha de maré salvador bahia brasil

    marcamos um encontro. claro que outras pessoas apareceram. claro que jefferson conhecia alguns dos rapazes que chegaram. claro que leo conhecia outros. mas nenhum deles sabia que os outros se conheciam. acabou virando uma reunião espontânea de gente que não se via fazia tempo. foi um daqueles momentos que eu vim buscar quando decidi me mudar para o brasil — e ali ele estava, acontecendo sem que eu precisasse forçar nada. você pode ler mais sobre como isso acontece no meu post de aniversário de um ano aqui.

    dois apartamentos e uma conversa que jefferson nunca vai esquecer

    uns três meses depois de estar em salvador, eu precisava de natureza. não de praia. natureza de verdade. verde. árvores. silêncio que não vem do mar. então liguei para jefferson e disse: quero me mudar para cachoeira.

    jefferson e a ilha salvador bahia

    e é claro que jefferson resolveu tudo.


    leia a parte 2 de 3 — leia a parte 3 de 3

    uma história sobre a amizade caótica que só o brasil produz. clique no + acima para ler em português.

    there is a type of person you meet and immediately feel like you have known for fifty years. not lifetimes. fifty years. like you skipped the getting-to-know-you part and arrived at the point where the friendship already exists.

    jefferson is that person.

    and this post almost did not happen because he made me furious. but he redeemed himself. as he always does. and it is part of why i honor him.

    the picture i could not get out of my head

    i had been living in salvador for about a month when i saw a photo of cachoeira. it was not even one of the more beautiful photos i have seen of the town. just a dry hillside, probably taken during dry season. but i could not stop thinking about it.

    went to bed thinking about it. woke up thinking about it. i had to go there. did not know why. just knew i had to go.

    jefferson collage cachoeira salvador bahia

    there is also this: about a week before, i had gotten a download. a clear insight that there was a spiritual person i needed to meet. i was not looking for a spiritual teacher. not something i do. but i heard it plainly: there is a person you need to meet. so i messaged the one person i knew in salvador and asked if they knew of anyone. nothing came of it.

    then i met an american woman on threads who did walking tours in salvador. we went on a walk together. i mentioned cachoeira. she had never been. we planned the trip.

    bus to cachoeira bahia arrival

    the moment we stepped off the bus in cachoeira, we both knew we needed two nights, not one. the air was different. lighter. green in a way salvador is not. the town settled into me in a way i was not expecting.

    bahia salvador local culture expat adventure

    the man at the pastry counter

    we were at a pastry counter. she was choosing sweets. i was already mildly annoyed because they had given me cold coffee warmed in a microwave. one of those days. i was sitting off to the side with my cup when a tall, slender black man walked up and said: oh, you speak english.

    my first thought was: she’s about to snap on him.

    cachoeira bahia pastry counter local culture

    she did not. they started talking. he came to the table. she introduced me. i sat back and watched, a little checked out, because i was tired and had not come to network. but my first impression of him was this: he looked like my son. he had that same friendly, curious energy. and i noticed immediately that he loved sweets. he was completely absorbed in not just his desserts but hers too, moving pieces around on the plate, inspecting, savoring everything with an intensity that made me laugh to myself.

    cachoeira salvador bahia expat experience

    we exchanged numbers. found out he lived in salvador and had come to cachoeira just for the day. the next morning he reached out for breakfast.

    cachoeira salvador bahia breakfast expat

    jefferson.

    the mayor of bahia

    there is a running joke between us. jefferson is the mayor of bahia. does not matter where we go. does not matter what time. he knows someone. or someone knows him. i have made bets with him that we cannot walk a few feet without him running into a familiar face. he denies it. says he does not know everyone. to this day he owes me money because he has not won a single bet.

    cachoeira salvador bahia street local culture

    it was the same way in that first meeting in cachoeira. the whole town seemed to know his name.

    back in salvador, i introduced jefferson to leo. leo is the one who handles my practical affairs — visas, translations, logistics. born and raised in salvador, went to college in atlanta at a historically black college, speaks english fluently. leo and jefferson did not know each other. and i kept thinking: how do we have two black men born and raised in salvador, among the rare few who speak english, and they do not know each other?

    ilha de mare salvador bahia brazil tour

    we planned a meetup. of course other people showed up. of course jefferson knew some of the young men who came in. of course leo knew others. none of them knew that the others knew each other. it became a spontaneous reunion of people who had not seen each other in a while. it was one of those moments i came to brazil looking for. you can read more about what that first year looked like in my one year anniversary post.

    two apartments and a conversation jefferson will not forget

    jefferson and the island salvador bahia

    about three months into living in salvador, i needed nature. not beach. actual nature. green. trees. silence that does not come from the ocean. so i called jefferson and said: i want to move to cachoeira.

    and of course jefferson sorted everything.



    read part 2 of 3 — read part 3 of 3

    a story about the chaotic friendship that only brazil produces. click the + above to read in english.